Friday, April 18, 2008
Bookworm Turns Boatswain A Maine Sailing Odyssey Begins
Ben McCanna
Ben McCanna: Bookworm to Boatswain in 6 months.
(page 1 of 2) This summer I'm going on twelve windjammer cruises along the coast of Maine. How did I get so lucky? It's kind of a long story.
Four years ago, I was an unemployed New Yorker. The publishing company I worked for had been purchased by a rival, and I was laid off. When I cleaned out my desk, I promised myself that unemployment would be an adventure; I'd emerge from the experience a better man. My plan was simple: I'd keep a close eye on the job boards, but I'd also run five miles a day, write 2,000 words of fiction every morning, and reconnect with my dog — the poor mutt who'd spent most of her days shuttered in our studio apartment like a latchkey kid.
The unemployment got off to a good start, but within two weeks my resolve had evaporated like a New Year's resolution. My writing languished, and the dog and I fought for space during long hours on the couch. Before long, I was devoting entire days to scouring the job boards, clicking the browser's refresh button with the obsessive regularity of a lab pigeon.
Five months later, the endless clicking paid off. I answered an ad for a book editor in Rockport, and soon packed my belongings for Vacationland.
In my new job, I edited how-to books on boating. My nautical experience up to that point included canoes, a handful of ferry rides, and little else, but my new employers were willing to take a chance on a noob like me. I was learning quickly — seemingly by osmosis. By editing nautical books, I could soon name every part of a sailboat and I'd learned coastal navigation — without ever leaving the dock. My head was swimming in the arcane lexicon of the sea. It was interesting, but largely useless to me at the time.
Midcoast Maine was a welcome change from city life, but it wasn't easy. My wife and I had never been social butterflies, but our first summer in Maine was nonetheless lonely. The demographics here seemed eerie. Camden, for instance, was almost like the village in Temple of Doom. Instead of finding a town with no children, however, we stumbled into a community nearly devoid of twenty- and thirtysomethings. Camden may have been full of entitled boomers and despondent teens, but the Gen-Xers and -Yers were largely absent, as if they'd been driven out of city limits by pitchfork-wielding mobs.
As it turned out, the Gen-X/-Yers were simply schooner bums; they spent their summers crewing the windjammers on Penobscot Bay. When autumn rolled around and the boats were winterized, the schooner bums came ashore, and the community was suddenly bustling with people our age.
Throughout that winter and spring I'd see the schooner bums around town and at parties. I think I became a bit of a curiosity to them: I was the new kid who knew all about sailing, but had never raised a sail. I was a poseur of the highest order, and, in some strange way, that superlative earned me a measure of respect.
Suddenly, in these settings, my book knowledge was useful. Schooner bums, as a rule, talk solely about boats. They are passionate about sailing, about wooden boats, about the wind and waves, and their passion is infectious. Although I couldn't fully relate to the stories I was hearing, I could at least understand the vocabulary. The schooner bums, knowing this about me, didn't have to alter their conversations to be inclusionary — like some host family that talks of only the weather to their foreign-exchange student. The schooner bums' stories of life on the Bay intrigued me, and I pestered them with questions whenever I could.
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There are twelve traditional tall ships in the Maine Windjammer Association; this summer I'm sailing on all of them.
For many, a windjammer vacation represents the perfect Maine getaway. Each day is filled with the sights that have become shorthand for Vacationland: lighthouses, lobster pots, and loons.
But life at sea isn’t pure leisure for everyone. To keep these antique vessels shipshape, the men and women who sail them must first endure a season of hard labor during spring fit-out. Then, in summer, these schooner bums will work long days at the helm or in the galley, only to bed down for a short night’s sleep in a humble crew berth.
Over the next six and a half months, I’ll learn what makes these trips so special for the passengers, but I’ll also find out what it is about the cool waters of Penobscot Bay that keep these schooner bums coming back for more.
Ben McCanna is a freelance writer, editor, and videographer. He lives in Rockland.
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Stephen Taber Day 3:
Stonington to Broad Cove, Owls Head
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Stephen Taber Day 2:
Pulpit Harbor, North Haven to Stonington
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Stephen Taber: Day 1
Rockland to Pulpit Harbor, North Haven
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Mary Day
Day 3: Pulpit Harbor, North Haven to Camden
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Mary Day
Day 2: Hells Half Acre Island, Stonington to Pulpit Harbor, North Haven
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Mary Day
Day 1: Camden to Hells Half Acre, Stonington
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Mercantile
Day 4: Gilkey Harbor to Camden
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Mercantile
Day 3: Fort Point, Stockton Springs to Gilkey Harbor, Islesboro
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Mercantile
Day 2: Brooklin to Fort Point, Stockton Springs
Sailor Lingo
A glossary of nautical terminology
A companion guide to Berth of the Cool, a Windjammer Journal
- about (coming about)— the process of turning the boat through the wind from one tack to another.
- beating— sailing upwind on a series of tacks. (Also known as sailing close-hauled.)
- berth— a place to sleep on a ship.
- bow— the front end of the ship.
- bowsprit — a large spar that projects from the bow of the ship.
- cabin sole— belowdecks flooring. The sole can be removed to expose the bilge.
- close-hauled— sailing into the wind with the sails trimmed in as close as possible
- coastal navigation— using two or more shoreline landmarks to chart the ship's location.
- companionway— a doorway and stairs leading from the deck to below.
- crew berths— bunks in the bow of the vessel. These are typically quite small.
- downwind run— sailing with the wind directly astern.
- fisherman anchor (yachtsman's anchor)— a type of anchor. Fisheman anchors are more traditional in design and used primarily for heavy-duty applications.
- fit-out— spring maintenance of a ship. Includes painting, varnishing, replacing planks, re-caulking seams, rigging, and bending-on sails.
- following sea— waves that are moving in the same direction as the boat’s course.
- forepeak— the forward-most portion of the deck.
- foresail— the sail attached to the forward mast of a two-masted ship.
- galley— a boat’s kitchen and belowdecks gathering place for passengers and crew
- halyard— a line that hoists a sail.
- haul-out — towing the boat out of the water so hull work can be done.
- heeling— when the boat leans to one side from wind pressure
- headsail— any number of sails that are forward of the foremast (includes the jib, staysail, and jib staysail)
- holding tank — tank that holds either freshwater, wastewater, or, in some cases, fuel.
- hook— anchor.
- jib— the forward-most headsail.
- jibe— the act of swinging the sails from one side of the boat to the other while sailing off the wind.
- lee (in the lee of)— a flat calm area of sea where the wind has been buffeted of blocked by a large object such as an island
- mainsail— the sail attached to the mainmast (aft mast) of a two-masted ship.
- NOAA— National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. A scientific agency that provides detailed forecasts on weather and sea states.
- peak— the upper part of a four-sided sail that resembles a peak when full hoisted.
- quarterdeck— aft portion of a tall ship (typically the upper deck). The helm is located here.
- raft— a collection of two or more boats tied together at an anchorage or mooring
- ratlines— ropes that form a ladder leading from the side of the boat to the top of the mast.
- "reading from both pages"— idiom for sailing "wing and wing." When sailing on a downwind run, the foresail is "wung out" such that it is trimmed on the opposite side of the mainsail. From the helm, the two sails resemble pages of an open book, hence "reading from both pages."
- rigging — (noun) ropes or cables that are broken into two general categories: 1. standing rigging supports masts; 2. running rigging allows crew to hoist or trim sails. (verb) Setting ropes, cables, spars, and masts into place.
- schooner— typically a two-masted ship where the mainmast (aft mast) is taller than the foremast.
- staysail— a headsail that is rigged directly forward of the foresail
- spar — a hefty length of rounded wood that serves to support rigging
- stern— the rear end of the boat.
- tack— (noun) a leg of a journey in which there are no significant changes to the boat’s course or its sails. Once the course has been changed and the sails trimmed, a new tack has begun. (verb) Sailing a zigzag course to windward.
- throat— the forward part of a four-sided sail; the part that is attached to the mast.
- transom— the ship’s rear-most panel as viewed from behind. Stern describes the general rear-end portion of the ship, while transom describes this particular area. (Typically, a boat’s name is painted on the transom).
- topsail— a sail that is set above the foresail on a schooner- or square-rigged vessel.
- trimming sail— adjusting the position of the sail for the best presentation to the wind.
- windlass— a winch that raises the anchor.
- yawlboat— a small motorboat that’s used to push a tall ship during calms or anytime sailing in untenable (such as in tight harbors).
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Reader Comments:
Your best experiences will be aboard the American Eagle and the Angelique. Those captains have been in the business since dirt and know what they're about.