Maine Windjammer Cruises

Maine Windjammer Cruises
Wednesday, August 6, 2008

Heritage, Day 3: Linekin Bay to Boothbay Harbor

Ben McCanna

Heritage, Day 3: Linekin Bay to Boothbay Harbor

The Heritage under sail.

(page 1 of 4)

Last night during the lobster bake, I overheard two captains reviewing their plans for today’s windjammer parade in Boothbay Harbor.

“So the parade is at 2:00?”

“Yep.”

“So we get to sail around for a few hours before we line up?”

“Yep.”

“My crew is going to love that.”

Captain Doug.

And so it is for the crew of the Heritage as well. This morning we woke up in Linekin Bay--just a few short miles from our destination in Boothbay Harbor--so there is literally nothing to do today but sail aimlessly in the Gulf of Maine.

And sailing is best when it is aimless.

Today the skies are bright blue, the sun is warm, and there’s a steady breeze pushing us along at a smile-inducing 8 knots. Best of all, weather conditions were calm last night, so the Gulf hasn’t yet developed a chop.

As one of the learned passengers aboard the Heritage points out, “It doesn’t get any better than this.”

Abaft, the Nathaniel Bowditch crew bends on a fisherman sail, sheets it in, and gives chase off our port quarter. For a time, the Bowditch gains on us, but when the Heritage fetches around the ledges on the southern tip of Damariscove Island, she forces the Bowditch into a turn. The Bowditch crew begins the laborious task of tacking the fisherman sail, and thus loses any ground she’d gained on us.

Whether this forced tack was a strategic error on the part of the Bowditch or a bit of chicanery on the part of Doug Lee is anybody’s guess, but it’s clear that Doug is delighted by this sudden turn of events, and the Heritage crew laughs with genuine admiration for their captain.

Today we were rejoined by the mate, Adam McKinlay. Adam had missed the first two days of the trip while at a wedding, but was driven to the shore of Linekin Bay this morning, and Captain Doug retrieved him in the yawlboat shortly after breakfast.

I was worried that the return of the mate might spoil the crew’s easygoing dynamic—that Adam would somehow restore order to the Heritage’s seemingly lawless foredeck.

I needn’t have worried.

The only perceptible change in attitude comes when Harry Sandler, a messmate from Massachusetts, contritely admits to Adam that the crew hasn’t been performing their sit-ups and push-ups during his absence.

Morgan Parmenter shows off her tattoos.

Posted on Wednesday, August 6, 2008 in Permalink

Views expressed in this blog belong to the author and do not necessarily reflect either Down East's editorial stance or the views of Down East Enterprise. We ask that comments be civil; anyone who refuses to self edit runs the risk of being banned from commenting on Down East.com content.

Reader Comments:
Old to new | New to old
Aug 9, 2008 12:21 pm
 Posted by  seanmacncheese

I love this series on the Heritage, can't wait to see your write-up on the Isaac H. Evans! It's the schooner closest to my heart!

Aug 11, 2008 11:01 am
 Posted by  Ben McCanna

Mr. MacNcheese,

I'll be aboard the Isaac H. Evans later this month for their Pirate Days trip. The stories should be posted in mid-September. In the meantime, be on the lookout for the Lewis R. French, Angelique, and Victory Chimes stories.

It's a tough job, but someone has to do it.

Thanks,
Ben

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About This Blog

There are twelve traditional tall ships in the Maine Windjammer Association; this summer I'm sailing on all of them.

For many, a windjammer vacation represents the perfect Maine getaway. Each day is filled with the sights that have become shorthand for Vacationland: lighthouses, lobster pots, and loons.

But life at sea isn’t pure leisure for everyone. To keep these antique vessels shipshape, the men and women who sail them must first endure a season of hard labor during spring fit-out. Then, in summer, these schooner bums will work long days at the helm or in the galley, only to bed down for a short night’s sleep in a humble crew berth.

Over the next six and a half months, I’ll learn what makes these trips so special for the passengers, but I’ll also find out what it is about the cool waters of Penobscot Bay that keep these schooner bums coming back for more.

Ben McCanna is a freelance writer, editor, and videographer. He lives in Rockland.

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Sailor Lingo

A glossary of nautical terminology

A companion guide to Berth of the Cool, a Windjammer Journal

  • about (coming about)— the process of turning the boat through the wind from one tack to another.
  • beating— sailing upwind on a series of tacks. (Also known as sailing close-hauled.)
  • berth— a place to sleep on a ship.
  • bow— the front end of the ship.
  • bowsprit — a large spar that projects from the bow of the ship.
  • cabin sole— belowdecks flooring. The sole can be removed to expose the bilge.
  • close-hauled— sailing into the wind with the sails trimmed in as close as possible
  • coastal navigation— using two or more shoreline landmarks to chart the ship's location.
  • companionway— a doorway and stairs leading from the deck to below.
  • crew berths— bunks in the bow of the vessel. These are typically quite small.
  • downwind run— sailing with the wind directly astern.
  • fisherman anchor (yachtsman's anchor)— a type of anchor. Fisheman anchors are more traditional in design and used primarily for heavy-duty applications.
  • fit-out— spring maintenance of a ship. Includes painting, varnishing, replacing planks, re-caulking seams, rigging, and bending-on sails.
  • following sea— waves that are moving in the same direction as the boat’s course.
  • forepeak— the forward-most portion of the deck.
  • foresail— the sail attached to the forward mast of a two-masted ship.
  • galley— a boat’s kitchen and belowdecks gathering place for passengers and crew
  • halyard— a line that hoists a sail.
  • haul-out — towing the boat out of the water so hull work can be done.
  • heeling— when the boat leans to one side from wind pressure
  • headsail— any number of sails that are forward of the foremast (includes the jib, staysail, and jib staysail)
  • holding tank — tank that holds either freshwater, wastewater, or, in some cases, fuel.
  • hook— anchor.
  • jib— the forward-most headsail.
  • jibe— the act of swinging the sails from one side of the boat to the other while sailing off the wind.
  • lee (in the lee of)— a flat calm area of sea where the wind has been buffeted of blocked by a large object such as an island
  • mainsail— the sail attached to the mainmast (aft mast) of a two-masted ship.
  • NOAA— National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. A scientific agency that provides detailed forecasts on weather and sea states.
  • peak— the upper part of a four-sided sail that resembles a peak when full hoisted.
  • quarterdeck— aft portion of a tall ship (typically the upper deck). The helm is located here.
  • raft— a collection of two or more boats tied together at an anchorage or mooring
  • ratlines— ropes that form a ladder leading from the side of the boat to the top of the mast.
  • "reading from both pages"— idiom for sailing "wing and wing." When sailing on a downwind run, the foresail is "wung out" such that it is trimmed on the opposite side of the mainsail. From the helm, the two sails resemble pages of an open book, hence "reading from both pages."
  • rigging — (noun) ropes or cables that are broken into two general categories: 1. standing rigging supports masts; 2. running rigging allows crew to hoist or trim sails. (verb) Setting ropes, cables, spars, and masts into place.
  • schooner— typically a two-masted ship where the mainmast (aft mast) is taller than the foremast.
  • staysail— a headsail that is rigged directly forward of the foresail
  • spar — a hefty length of rounded wood that serves to support rigging
  • stern— the rear end of the boat.
  • tack— (noun) a leg of a journey in which there are no significant changes to the boat’s course or its sails. Once the course has been changed and the sails trimmed, a new tack has begun. (verb) Sailing a zigzag course to windward.
  • throat— the forward part of a four-sided sail; the part that is attached to the mast.
  • transom— the ship’s rear-most panel as viewed from behind. Stern describes the general rear-end portion of the ship, while transom describes this particular area. (Typically, a boat’s name is painted on the transom).
  • topsail— a sail that is set above the foresail on a schooner- or square-rigged vessel.
  • trimming sail— adjusting the position of the sail for the best presentation to the wind.
  • windlass— a winch that raises the anchor.
  • yawlboat— a small motorboat that’s used to push a tall ship during calms or anytime sailing in untenable (such as in tight harbors).