Monday, June 9, 2008
Mercantile
Day 4: Gilkey Harbor to Camden
Ben McCanna
Mercantile, Camden Maine
Ben McCanna
(page 1 of 2)
Thursday, May 22, 2008I wake up to the sound of the yawlboat's motor; the Mercantile is already in motion. I get dressed and go topsides for a cup of coffee. The sails are still furled, there’s little wind, and Penobscot Bay is flat calm. The air is warm and sunny with a touch of humidity. It's going to be a hot day back on land.
Matt rings the breakfast bell and Alison carries quiche out of the galley and onto the deck. When I'm done eating, I walk back to the quarterdeck and say hello to Captain Ray.
"Do you think you can find Camden?" he asks me.
"I think so."
Captain Ray turns the helm over to me while he goes forward for a plate of quiche. I point the bow at the distant silhouette of Curtis Island Light and make small corrections to the wheel. The Camden Hills loom off the starboard side; the windows of the seaside homes glint in the morning sun.
When Captain Ray is done eating, he takes the helm and I help Andy and Matt wash dishes in plastic basins on the aft cabin house. This isn't seamanship by a long shot, but it's a necessary part of windjamming and it feels good to chip in.
Andy and Matt have been buddies since high school in Memphis, Tennessee; they've got an easy rapport and crack jokes as they pass sudsy plates down the line for rinsing and drying. Despite this long history of friendship, they're not exclusionary. They might be the cool kids at the back of the bus, but they're not the types to launch spitballs at any flatfooted outsiders who enter their sphere. They're not pandering, either. Sure, their job requires them to greet each passenger with a warm smile, but I get the sense they'd be no different off the clock.
*****
Camden Hills
It's been four days since we left the dock, but the memories of those tense moments are still fresh. I feel nervous — not for our safety, but rather for the pride of the crew. Tonight at the bar they'll probably take some knocks from the other schooner bums. Our rocky departure last Monday is probably already the stuff of legends; another plot line for As the Anchor Drags. They don't need an encore performance today in a crowded harbor.
Posted on Monday, June 9, 2008 in Permalink
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Reader Comments:
Ben -
I've been reading you Blog for a few weeks now, and run to my computer every morning now to see if there is an update. I actually leave the window open on my computer, so all I have to do is refresh the screen.
I worked for 3 seasons on the Schooner Heritage. It was without question, 3 of the best years of my life. Say hi to Doug and Linda for me when you get to work for them.
You are doing a great job capturing the day to day goings on and atmosphere onboard these great vessels.
One of the things that many people may not understand is that the Captains of these schooners are not just a figurehead that navigates the vessel from day to day... there is the necessity for them to be so much more than that onboard - weathermen, engineers, doctors, painters, plumbers, cooks, expert in rigging and ship construction, social workers, psychiatrists, human resources, and storyteller.
One of my favorite memories AND THERE ARE MANY is actually from before we even carried our first passenger. During the Coast Guard trial we conducted our man overboard drill, lowered our pulling boat, and rowed like hell for what seemed like miles as it was all up wind, for what seemed like both ways.
Or there is the time Capt. Doug rebuilt a bent valve in the "donkey engine" with a hammer, some sandpaper and a file - and if I do say, it ran better than ever after that.
Or there is the time we were crossing from Stonington towards the Fox Island Thoroughfare in the teeth of a gale, heeled over and taking green water over the rail.
Or there is the time when... you get the point... It's your blog - I don't want to hi-jack it...
Enjoy every sore muscle, every blister, every banged finger... I miss it every single day.
Hi Chris,
Thanks for your comments. I'll be on the Heritage for the Boothbay Harbor trip on June 23. I'll be sure to tell the Lees you said hello.
In the meantime, I'll post stories from my 3-day trip aboard the Mary Day early next week.
Thanks again.
Ben McCanna
Ben,
What a great blog! Your stories have me missing the sea now that I live in a land-locked state . . . how great that I can read about life on the water and live vicariously through your experiences.
Keep up the wonderful blogging!
G
Ben-
What boat are you scheduled aboard for Schooner Gam (the week of the June 16th?
Hi,
I haven't received confirmation yet, but it's looking like I'll be living like a true schooner bum within the Grace Bailey's fo'c'sle.
See you there?
Ben McCanna
Hi Ben-
I'll look for you on ol' Mattie when we all raft up next week. I'll be on John Foss's schooner.
Bridget
Hi Ben,
As passengers on this sailing we enjoyed very much reliving our experience through your well written report. Captain Ray and his great crew provided us with a wonderful experience.
Will keep reading about your other adventures.
If any of the other Mercantile passengers are reading this, it was great getting to know all of you.
Sylvia
Hi Sylvia,
Thanks for posting. I hope you had a pleasant return to NJ. Lothar sent me an e-mail (that I had to have translated from German). He seems to be up to his ears in photo work at Keiler Woche.
Last week I was on a 5-day trip on the Grace Bailey. Andy and Alison were crewing, but Capt. Ray, Matt, and Holly were elsewhere. A good trip despite thick fog...and much smoother departure. I plan to post those stories on or around July 15.
I'm off tomorrow for two, back-to-back 6-day trips on the Heritage and Lewis R. French, respectively.
Bitteschon,
Ben McCanna