Monday, July 7, 2008
Stephen Taber: Day 1
Rockland to Pulpit Harbor, North Haven

(page 1 of 3)

     You have no choice but to admire a good shitstorm. If your tire goes flat on the highway, you have every right to kick the wheel and curse the fates. But if you accidentally lock your keys in your car when you go out to inspect the flat, you have no choice but to take a seat on the hood, slap your knee, and guffaw at the sheer absurdity of chance.

Stephen Taber
Captain: Noah Barnes
Built: 1871
Length: 68'
Capacity: 22 passengers and 4 crew

The Stephen Taber at sail.

The Stephen Taber is America's oldest documented sailing vessel in continuous service. She was built in Glen Head, New York. National Historic Landmark.www.stephentaber.com

    Captain Noah Barnes is having one of those days. It’s a gray, drizzly morning, and Captain Noah has just learned that his first mate suffered a long bout of food poisoning during shore leave, his yawl boat was swept away to a lee shore, and his deckhand quit. It is a perfect shitstorm, and Captain Noah is all grins.

    On the other hand, Captain Noah is simply one of those people. He knows the value of a good story, and he knows he’s just hit paydirt. Today he might be faced with a mountain of unexpected hassles, but years from now, when he’s a grizzled old man, Captain Noah can still talk about the boat wake that swept his yawlboat from its davit hooks, and the greenhorn who abruptly resigned via text message.

    Yes, text message.

 

Posted on Monday, July 7, 2008 in Permalink

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About This Blog

There are twelve traditional tall ships in the Maine Windjammer Association; this summer I'm sailing on all of them.

For many, a windjammer vacation represents the perfect Maine getaway. Each day is filled with the sights that have become shorthand for Vacationland: lighthouses, lobster pots, and loons.

But life at sea isn’t pure leisure for everyone. To keep these antique vessels shipshape, the men and women who sail them must first endure a season of hard labor during spring fit-out. Then, in summer, these schooner bums will work long days at the helm or in the galley, only to bed down for a short night’s sleep in a humble crew berth.

Over the next six and a half months, I’ll learn what makes these trips so special for the passengers, but I’ll also find out what it is about the cool waters of Penobscot Bay that keep these schooner bums coming back for more.

Ben McCanna is a freelance writer, editor, and videographer. He lives in Rockland.