Tuesday, July 8, 2008
Stephen Taber Day 2: Pulpit Harbor, North Haven to Stonington
Ben McCanna
(page 1 of 3) If there’s such a thing as a schooner-bum uniform, it looks something like this: - Carhartt carpenter pants (preferably moss or brown)
- Moth-eaten cotton T-shirt
- Cotton hoodie (preferably navy)
- Wool sweater (earth-toned, please)
- Breathtakingly expensive Native Eyewear sunglasses
- Leather sheath, containing a knife, Leatherman, and marlinspike (or some combination thereof; each secured to the waist by hand-woven lanyard)
- Marine-themed tattoos (optional)
- Footwear (optional)
- Rubber foul-weather gear (worn only in the direst of tempests)
- Myriad styles of winter hats (the pièce de resistance)
Within this list, there’s leeway for a few degrees of individuality, but these variances usually fall under four distinct rubrics: 1) natural-fiber hippie; 2) outdoor-clothing gearhead/fleece enthusiast; 3) boatbuilder chic; and 4) turn-of-the-century walking-anachronism. Also, depending on the captain, certain restrictions may apply. Many captains, including Captain Noah, require their crews to wear matching shirts, and they institute no-barefoot policies. But, for the most part, the aforementioned conventions are universal within the Maine Windjammer fleet, and these neutral-toned schooner bums are readily identifiable on land (even when strolling amid throngs of Maine’s colorful tourists, glum teenagers, and haughty yachtsmen). What you might find surprising, however, is this shopworn style is unisex, and it looks just fine on the ladies. With the unexpected departure of Captain Noah’s Kansan deckhand, the Stephen Taber is suddenly run by an all-female crew: a fact that is noteworthy only through its sheer lack of noteworthiness.
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There are twelve traditional tall ships in the Maine Windjammer Association; this summer I'm sailing on all of them.
For many, a windjammer vacation represents the perfect Maine getaway. Each day is filled with the sights that have become shorthand for Vacationland: lighthouses, lobster pots, and loons.
But life at sea isn’t pure leisure for everyone. To keep these antique vessels shipshape, the men and women who sail them must first endure a season of hard labor during spring fit-out. Then, in summer, these schooner bums will work long days at the helm or in the galley, only to bed down for a short night’s sleep in a humble crew berth.
Over the next six and a half months, I’ll learn what makes these trips so special for the passengers, but I’ll also find out what it is about the cool waters of Penobscot Bay that keep these schooner bums coming back for more.
Ben McCanna is a freelance writer, editor, and videographer. He lives in Rockland.
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The Great Schooner Race, 2008
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Lewis R. French Day 1: Camden to Holbrook Island Harbor, Castine
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Heritage, Day 5: Long Cove to Pulpit Harbor, North Haven
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Heritage, Day 4: Boothbay Harbor to Long Cove, Vinalhaven
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Heritage, Day 3: Linekin Bay to Boothbay Harbor
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Aboard the Heritage
Day 2: Port Clyde to Linekin Bay, Boothbay
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Aboard the Heritage
Day 1: Rockland to Port Clyde
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Aboard the Grace Bailey
Day 4: Carvers Harbor, Vinalhaven to Gilkey Harbor, Islesboro
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Aboard the Grace Bailey
Day 2: Holbrook Island Harbor, Castine to “WoodenBoat Harbor,” Brooklin
Sailor Lingo
A glossary of nautical terminology
A companion guide to Berth of the Cool, a Windjammer Journal
- about (coming about)— the process of turning the boat through the wind from one tack to another.
- beating— sailing upwind on a series of tacks. (Also known as sailing close-hauled.)
- berth— a place to sleep on a ship.
- bow— the front end of the ship.
- bowsprit — a large spar that projects from the bow of the ship.
- cabin sole— belowdecks flooring. The sole can be removed to expose the bilge.
- close-hauled— sailing into the wind with the sails trimmed in as close as possible
- coastal navigation— using two or more shoreline landmarks to chart the ship's location.
- companionway— a doorway and stairs leading from the deck to below.
- crew berths— bunks in the bow of the vessel. These are typically quite small.
- downwind run— sailing with the wind directly astern.
- fisherman anchor (yachtsman's anchor)— a type of anchor. Fisheman anchors are more traditional in design and used primarily for heavy-duty applications.
- fit-out— spring maintenance of a ship. Includes painting, varnishing, replacing planks, re-caulking seams, rigging, and bending-on sails.
- following sea— waves that are moving in the same direction as the boat’s course.
- forepeak— the forward-most portion of the deck.
- foresail— the sail attached to the forward mast of a two-masted ship.
- galley— a boat’s kitchen and belowdecks gathering place for passengers and crew
- halyard— a line that hoists a sail.
- haul-out — towing the boat out of the water so hull work can be done.
- heeling— when the boat leans to one side from wind pressure
- headsail— any number of sails that are forward of the foremast (includes the jib, staysail, and jib staysail)
- holding tank — tank that holds either freshwater, wastewater, or, in some cases, fuel.
- hook— anchor.
- jib— the forward-most headsail.
- jibe— the act of swinging the sails from one side of the boat to the other while sailing off the wind.
- lee (in the lee of)— a flat calm area of sea where the wind has been buffeted of blocked by a large object such as an island
- mainsail— the sail attached to the mainmast (aft mast) of a two-masted ship.
- NOAA— National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. A scientific agency that provides detailed forecasts on weather and sea states.
- peak— the upper part of a four-sided sail that resembles a peak when full hoisted.
- quarterdeck— aft portion of a tall ship (typically the upper deck). The helm is located here.
- raft— a collection of two or more boats tied together at an anchorage or mooring
- ratlines— ropes that form a ladder leading from the side of the boat to the top of the mast.
- "reading from both pages"— idiom for sailing "wing and wing." When sailing on a downwind run, the foresail is "wung out" such that it is trimmed on the opposite side of the mainsail. From the helm, the two sails resemble pages of an open book, hence "reading from both pages."
- rigging — (noun) ropes or cables that are broken into two general categories: 1. standing rigging supports masts; 2. running rigging allows crew to hoist or trim sails. (verb) Setting ropes, cables, spars, and masts into place.
- schooner— typically a two-masted ship where the mainmast (aft mast) is taller than the foremast.
- staysail— a headsail that is rigged directly forward of the foresail
- spar — a hefty length of rounded wood that serves to support rigging
- stern— the rear end of the boat.
- tack— (noun) a leg of a journey in which there are no significant changes to the boat’s course or its sails. Once the course has been changed and the sails trimmed, a new tack has begun. (verb) Sailing a zigzag course to windward.
- throat— the forward part of a four-sided sail; the part that is attached to the mast.
- transom— the ship’s rear-most panel as viewed from behind. Stern describes the general rear-end portion of the ship, while transom describes this particular area. (Typically, a boat’s name is painted on the transom).
- topsail— a sail that is set above the foresail on a schooner- or square-rigged vessel.
- trimming sail— adjusting the position of the sail for the best presentation to the wind.
- windlass— a winch that raises the anchor.
- yawlboat— a small motorboat that’s used to push a tall ship during calms or anytime sailing in untenable (such as in tight harbors).
Berth of the Cool: A Maine Windjammer Journal
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Reader Comments:
Hi Brian Ben!
So exciting to read about the TABER trip! Makes me miss it but makes me so happy I was there! Your writing is interesting and funny...just like our trip. The video is great. I am impressed.
Missing Maine,
Nadine Nancy
Schooner bum outfitting headquarters: Reny's!! Forget Beans, forget Cabela's-Reny's rocks!
Hi Ben! You might have also mentioneded among female windjammer captains that Allysa Williamson of Maine Windjammer Cruises has captained the schooner Mistress for 5 seasons with her 100 Ton Near Coastal Master ticket starting at about age 21.
Enjoying your series thoroughly! -Buck
Excellent lead, Buck. I haven't met Allysa yet, but I've heard great things. (Hilary Clark, for one, speaks very highly of the times they worked together.)
Say, while I'm rapping I might mention that I managed to secure some late-breaking facts from Heritage HQ. Captain Linda Lee earned her ticket in 1974.
(For those of you keeping count, that was my birth year.)
Thanks again, Buck Fifty. I appreciate the comments.
Ben
Hi,
Great to read about the Stephen Taber Ben and very happy that our paths crossed on this wonderful journey. Life is not measured by the number of breaths we take,but by the moments that take our breath away. What a fantastic trip our captain Noah took us on.
Great memories,
Barbara