White Gold Fever

When you?re hunting for the rare ? and expensive ? ?truffle of Maine,? it?s easy to get carried away.

One morning in late fall I met up with chef Rob Evans and his partner, Nancy Pugh, in front of Hugo's, their Portland restaurant. We stood around in the cold air, looking up at a sky that threatened rain, sipping coffee. We were waiting for "the man," who would take us to "the place" -- a trek into the woods in search of a very special mushroom.

The man is Rick Tibbets, a diminutive forty-seven-year-old former chef of compact build who looked intensely fit as he got out of his car a few minutes later.

 




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