Wednesday, April 23, 2008
What is good Maine food?
“Maine food,” in its most stereotypical form, consists of a few old-timers: lobster, clams, “chowdah”, and blueberry pie. Throw in some fiddleheads and potatoes, and there you have it. At least that’s how “Maine food” is often perceived. So when tourists come to our shores and mountains, their expectations are colored by the perception of the way food (and by extension, life) should be in Maine. Namely this perception involves seaside dining complete with a lobster dinner, fried clams, and perhaps an ice cream cone. Thus our restaurants, or many of them, are forced to cater to this identity that is at once a blessing (it draws the crowds) and a curse (it limits creativity).
In a place like our state, then, it would seem that the terroir is of utmost importance, like a crucial pinch of cilantro or rosemary without which the dish wouldn’t quite taste as good. And I’m the last to argue with the fact that the fried clams at The Lobster Shack in Cape Elizabeth (see the May Down East feature "Where to Eat Now") taste better because of the sun and the sea and the austere surroundings in which I eat them. But if you had to ask me flat out, I don’t think I could deny that the ones at Susan’s Fish and Chips (207-878 3240) on Forest Ave. are far better, even though the atmosphere is less than stellar.
So as Mainers, that Maine mystique so pursued by tourists is intrinsic in everything we do, and we are lucky for it. Sure I have a lobster bake a few times a year, and yes I will cook myself a pot of steamers every so often. But I don’t suffer from the pressure to create that Maine experience. I’m lucky enough that it just creates itself. I can have a picnic on Mount Battie followed by a cocktail at Natalie’s overlooking the harbor, and I don’t even have to think about seeking out the Maineness of it all.
Perhaps it in inevitable, then, that Mainers’ good Maine food means something altogether different than the good Maine food of map-toting tourists. Both are Maine and both are good in their own ways. Just different. As we approach full tourist season, my goal is to find those elusive gems that meet both standards.
Posted on Wednesday, April 23, 2008 in Permalink
Reader Comments:
Well stated, Ms. Maine Mouth. Good luck in your quest.
Well I found your blog through the food map and you raise a very good question. First, my wife and I are from away - the mid-Atlantic - but we do have a small place on the West End of Portland and visit every other month. And yes, seafood is always prominent in our minds.
We are well aware of the wonderfull foody scene in Portland - and a place like Evangeline is on our list to try - it's not far from our little place. But I can find places like 555, Hugo's etc. in Boston, New York and Washington - I 'm not putting them down, it's just fine dining at its best which one can find in many metro areas.
When visitors come to ur area, it's all about crab - steamed crabs, fried hard crabs, saute soft shells, crab soup (the tomato based is Mid-Atlantic - the cream stuff is really deep south), and of course the crab cake with Old Bay seasoning. But like most locals, we all have our favorite places - usually a neighborhood bar or family place that just does a good job with crab.
So we also like the favorites of locals - Norm's 3 places in Portland, quirky Kathadin, J's Oyster, and Duckfat which is fast becoming a local favorite.
And there is Millers Lobster and Pleasant Beach Lobster - both in South Thomaston. And the wonderful Mirandas in Rockland.
All those aforementioned places we look forward to visiting. Yes, we'll save time for Bresca and trying Evangelines, but local places are just as appealing. So we need more of them listed - is there anything in Gorham? How about Windham? And Belfast and Ellsworth?
Thanks!
Ed
We're from Connecticut, and my husband and I have a habit of going to Wiscasset every year for a few days of much needed renewal. This year during our stay, we visited the Edgecomb Eatery on Route 27 in Edgecomb (just on the way to Boothbay), and all I can say is, we went back. And then we went back again. We read the Down East article on Where to Eat Now, and agree with all you had to say, but we went to Edgecomb Eatery.
Try the All You Can Eat BBQ ribs on Saturday night......
Enjoy! Jet
Thanks for your comments. Ed, I'll definitely get some good ideas for Belfast and Ellsworth. I did blog recently about Seng Thai, which is wonderful Thai food in Belfast. And I'm on the lookout for good places in Windham or Gorham. Stay tuned!
-The Maine Mouth