In a city of great restaurants, yet one more might have trouble standing out. And that may be the case with Emilitsa, which flies a bit under the radar despite its stellar cuisine and top-notch service. Just a few doors down from Five Fifty-five, in a slim storefront on Congress Street in Portland, brothers John and Demos Regas serve refined Greek fare that will erase the memory of the last mystery-meat gyro you grabbed at a street fair — and add one more name to the ever-growing list of must-visit Portland restaurants.

Peek in the front window of Emilitsa, and you’ll glimpse a long banquette and a row of wooden tables along the right-hand wall — and that’s about it. Step inside, though, and you’ll find a space that manages to be sleek, comfortable, and just a tiny bit whimsical, all at the same time. A small, curved bar, with a handful of seats, breaks up the room’s long, narrow rectangle, while a tower of wine bottles on their sides is more art installation (and room divider) than storage solution. In the back half of the dining room, a round, white textural wall hanging — a flokati — brings to mind both an extravagantly shaggy rug and the sheep whose offspring inspire much Greek cuisine.

The Regas brothers, first-generation Americans who grew up on the shores of Lake Superior in northern Minnesota, had initially planned to open a fast food place in Portland, a city they chose because of its tourist traffic and its similarity to their hometown (rocky coast, hilly terrain, frigid winters). But when they walked into the old brick building on Congress Street, they felt the space called out for something more. “I have an art background, and when we saw the brick work, we thought, there’s something about this place — it’s warm, and we could fix it up to be really nice,” says Demos Regas. “So we went this other route, with low lighting and nice music. The building just seemed like it was perfect for that type of crowd.”

They installed John at the front of the house, while Demos runs the kitchen, along with his son and right-hand man, Niko. Together, the Regas men work diligently to create a warm, comfortable spot where their guests can enjoy top-notch food. The Greek reputation for hospitality is well earned at Emilitsa, where every table receives “a bite from the kitchen” after they’ve ordered. It’s a lovely touch — who doesn’t like a little something for free, especially when that something is as tasty as dhal (pureed yellow lentils) with spring onions and toast points?

As for the menu itself, it’s akin to a survey course in Greek cuisine, overseen by an extremely benevolent instructor. If you’ve got a favorite Greek dish — moussaka, spanakopita, horiatiki, tzatziki — you’re likely to find it here. “At home, our mom always cooked Greek food,” says Demos. “And we realized that we had some really good — really authentic — recipes that had been in our family for three or four generations. That’s what I love to cook.”

That affection shows in Regas’ cooking. He takes a light touch with a summer plate of horiatiki — luscious tomatoes, cucumber, red onion, and tangy feta cheese, topped with just the right amount of olive oil and herbs to let the flavors shine. Another appetizer, a trio of spreads accompanied by piping hot pita bread, is anchored by a luxurious tzatziki of dense, creamy yogurt, raw garlic, shredded cucumber, and mint. It’s an addictive combination, and Emilitsa’s version is particularly tasty.

The menu shifts with the seasons, and with Regas’ whims. For fall, he expects to introduce a salad featuring sockeye salmon cured with ouzo, as well as entrees such as a bone-in pork chop with Greek herbs and a red onion marmalade, or perhaps shrimp with house-made pasta. But he’s not allowed to change the menu too much, or customers will revolt, as they did when Emilitsa briefly removed moussaka — a labor-intensive Greek lasagna of eggplant and ground beef topped with a béchamel sauce and run under the broiler — from the menu. (It’s back, and it won’t be going anywhere any time soon.)

Ditto for the baklava, a flaky, honey-drizzled bit of perfection, stuffed with chopped walnuts and raisins, that, like just about everything else on the menu, comes from a Regas family recipe. The wine list, too, is almost entirely Greek; Emilitsa’s friendly, knowledgeable servers know it well and can guide you through the sea of unfamiliar varietals. “We look for wait staff who have a natural love for the food and a warm heart,” says Demos. “The way we were brought up, we just love to cook and share good food with people.”

And at Emilitsa, that’s exactly what they do. Michaela Cavallaro

Emilitsa is located at 547 Congress Street in Portland. Open for dinner Monday through Saturday at 5 p.m. Entrees $18 to $35. 207-221-0245. Emilitsa.com